Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Spicy African Chicken and Peanut Soup, and happy Halloween

From Gourmet Today, edited by Ruth Reichl (page 146)

2/3 cup smooth peanut butter
5 cups water
1/4 cup peanut oil
4 chicken drumsticks
salt
4 chicken thighs
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced lengthwise
2 T tomato paste
1 can diced tomatoes in juice, drained
1 3/4 cup chicken broth
2 fresh hot red chiles, including seeds
1 medium eggplant (1 pound)
1 large sweet potato (1 pound)
1 cup fresh or frozen sliced okra

Stir together peanut butter and 1 cup water until smooth.

Heat oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking.  Pat drumsticks dry and sprinkle with 1/4 t salt.  Brown drumsticks in oil, turning occasionally, until golden, about 6 minutes.  Transfer to a bowl.  Pat thighs dry, sprinkle with 1/4 t salt, and brown in same manner; transfer to bowl.

Pour of all but 2 T fat from pot.  Add onion and cook over medium heat until golden around edges, about 2 minutes.  Add tomato paste and cook, stirring for 1 minutes.  Add peanut butter mixture, remaining 4 cups water, diced tomatoes, stock, chicken with any juices from the bowl, chiles, and 1 t salt and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until chicken is tender, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, trim eggplant and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.  Add eggplant to soup and simmer, partially covered, for 5 minutes.  While eggplant simmers, peel sweet potato and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.  Add sweet potato and okra, partially cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until potato is tender, 15-18 minutes.  Salt as desired.

Note: After the soups cooks, you can remove the chicken meat from the bones and return bite-sized pieces to the pot.

ANN'S VERSION:  This Soup Made My Day!!!

 This is one of the best soups I've ever had anywhere.  It wasn't one I could throw together out of the pantry since it needed an eggplant and okra, but it's well worth a trip to the grocery store.  Reading the recipe I realized it was going to be quite different from my usual soups, so I tried to stick to the instructions (good luck with that!).  I knew Gordon wouldn't eat it (eggplant, onion and chile) so I started with an extra chicken thigh and drumstick, figuring I could fish them out midway through and with some rice he'd have an acceptable supper.  That worked well!  

 My peanut oil was the roasted kind so even the browning chicken smelled amazing.  I love fat but bit the bullet and poured off the extra before browning the onion.  All went according to the recipe (briefly!) and then I noticed there was no size mentioned for the can of chopped tomatoes so I just used what I had on hand which was a 26 oz. box and put it all in, including the juice (when has tomato juice ever caused harm in a soup?).  I doubled the salt  (according to this week's newspaper it has nothing to do with high blood pressure and everything to do with happiness) and doubled the chile peppers (the outside pots are still producing mucho 6" fresh cayennes).  

The soup smelled amazing even before the vegetables went in.  Once the chicken was tender and the vegetables went in (I had to use frozen okra so I used all 3 cups in the bag rather than have a forlorn partial bag in the freezer) I realized the soup was quite thick, more like stew than soup.  Okra's slime thickens dishes a lot so I added the rest of the chicken stock in the box for a total of 4 cups of broth to make it more soupy.  Pulled the meat off the bones, added even more salt, and had an incredible dinner plus 4 quart containers for the freezer.  Yay!!

CASSIE'S VERSION: It Made Mine, Too!

This was incredible - definitely the best thing I've made in recent memory.  I got tied up last night but was determined to have it for dinner.  I finally sat down to a very fragrant, extremely filling bowl of this soup around 10pm, and it was worth the wait.

I was unable to find peanut oil, so substituted olive oil.  This was fine, but I know it would have been even better with a good-quality roasted oil.  I stuck with boneless, skinless chicken thighs so I wouldn't have to fish out the bones later.  The chicken was so tender that it almost melted when I ate it - an effect I am usually unable to achieve.  Other than these changes, I stuck to the recipe fairly closely 

I am always looking for ways to use my frozen habaneros (which my mother keeps me supplied with - thank you!), so I used just one chile in this dish and it imparted perfect heat and flavor.  I used a 14-ounce can of tomatoes, undrained, as I was worried I'd made the soup too spicy.  I am lucky to have fresh okra and tender Asian eggplants available year-round at my local Indian grocer, so I used those.  I also purchased the only sweet potatoes the store had, which were the purple Asian variety - not perfect for this soup but still very tasty.

I just had another bowl of soup for lunch, and it was just as delicious as last night.  The aforementioned okra "slime" did thicken it overnight, but I wasn't too bothered by this.  I'll also try serving over white rice, curry-style.

A truly amazing recipe! 



 
 ... and happy Halloween!  (I think this photo is acceptable to post, Mom, because your costume is clearly in keeping with the culinary theme.  You have some pretty weird companions, though - not sure why you invited both the Grim Reaper and Laura Ingalls Wilder to the picnic!)

Monday, October 28, 2013

First Recipe; Or, the Primordial Soup

OUR RECIPE FOR PUMPKIN SOUP
from The Soup Bible by Debra Mayhew

1 T. Olive Oil
2 T. butter
1 lg. onion, sliced
1 t. salt
6 c. roasted pumpkin, peeled and cut in chunks
3 c. sliced potatoes
2 ½ c. vegetable or chicken stock
pinch of nutmeg
2 t. dried tarragon
2 ½ c. milk
2 t. lemon juice
 Heat the oil & butter in a pot, then add the onion and salt and fry over med. low heat until soft but not brown.  Add potatoes, cover and cook over med low heat for 10 min.  Stir in stock, seasonings and pumpkin, bring to a boil and simmer for about 10 min.  Puree with a hand blender, then add milk, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

ANN’S VERSION

I followed the recipe through cooking the potatoes.  The Sugar Baby pumpkin I roasted turned out to have exactly 6 c. of chunks!  The ingredients list made me think it would be a fairly thick soup, so I used peeled Yukon Gold potatoes since they’re a little moister than russets and their yellow color would go nicely with pumpkin.  I have a big herb garden, and since the weather reports say we could have our first freeze in a couple of days why not use fresh herbs while I can.  So, instead of nutmeg and tarragon I used a heaping tablespoon each of chopped marjoram and lemon thyme. Smelled great!  It looked like a lot of vegetables in the pot and I hate having open containers of chicken broth in the refrigerator so I used all the broth in the can—4 cups—but then used just 2 cups of milk.  It looked pretty with the little flecks of green herbs but tasted rather bland, so I added the juice of a whole lemon,  Still not enough taste for me, so in went a teaspoon of hot smoked Spanish paprika.  I’d roasted the pumpkin’s seeds along with the pumpkin and sprinkled some on the bowl right before I ate.  Delicious and just the right consistency!

CASSIE'S VERSION



My sugar pumpkin was too small!  I only had four cups of squash, so I intended to halve the recipe and just have a more squashy soup.  But then I added in 3 cups of potatoes anyway, because I forgot, so I decided to make it a less squashy soup and returned all the other ingredients to their original quantities.  I did not peel my Yukon Gold potatoes, as I thought that the potato peels might pump up the color a bit.  Also, my peeler was in the dishwasher and I am perhaps a bit lazy when it comes to such details.  Unlike my mother, I do not have either warm temperatures or a garden, both of which are necessary for growing ample amounts of herbs as she does.  So I stuck to the tarragon and nutmeg, which I think actually served me well.  I added several generous shakes of cayenne, which I think is a good chile to use if you want to impart heat but don't want to tamper much with the overall flavor.  I only had skim milk so I substituted some heavy cream in for part of the liquid.  And I used my best chicken bouillon instead of the cheap Knorr squares that I typically have on hand.  

I tasted the soup and thought it was going to be really bland - and then I added the lemon juice and all was saved!  I considered adding more than was called for, but am glad I didn't as it ended up being the perfect amount.  Since I ate all of my roasted pumpkin seeds as I was making the soup, I had none left for garnish - though I had considered that as an option.  Instead I sprinkled the finished product with the "green onions" from my vegetable "garden" (really just a little box), which I had just put away for the winter.  These onions look like rather limpid chives - they did not thrive outside, but they tasted pretty good atop my soup.  The best part about this recipe was that it wasn't a typical squash soup - no sweetness, and it wasn't overly thick.  I had another serving for lunch at school, sipped out of my Thermos while reading about the mess of a man that was Andrew Jackson.  Ironic that I consumed a lunch based on New World foods - squash and potatoes - while reading about the Indian Removal Act.  

No soup for Andrew Jackson!

Sunday, October 27, 2013

The Mock Turtle's Song; Or, Cassie and Ann's New Project


A jointly-made beautiful soup, circa 2007
“Beautiful Soup, so rich and green,
Waiting in a hot tureen!   
Who for such dainties would not stoop?   
Soup of the evening, beautiful Soup!   
Soup of the evening, beautiful Soup!       
Beau—ootiful Soo—oop!      
 Beau—ootiful Soo—oop!   
Soo—oop of the e—e—evening,       
Beautiful, beautiful Soup!    
 
“Beautiful Soup! Who cares for fish,   
Game, or any other dish?   
Who would not give all else for two   
Pennyworth only of beautiful Soup?   
Pennyworth only of beautiful Soup?       
Beau—ootiful Soo—oop!       
Beau—ootiful Soo—oop!   
Soo—oop of the e—e—evening,       
Beautiful, beauti—FUL SOUP!”





Learning the fundamentals, circa early '90s
My mother made up a tune to the Mock Turtle's paean to soup from Alice in Wonderland.  While I can't communicate the effect this had on me when she belted it out, I do hope to use this space to communicate with her, and about soup. Thus, the unveiling of a new project: Ann – in New Mexico, and Cassie – in New England, will each attempt the same recipe (likely soup) and compare our dishes on this blog.  Similar tastes, different minds.  Same recipes, separate tweaks.  What effect will the distance have on the final result?  Who knows!  Beautiful Soups will chronicle the results!